The Tour Du Mont Blanc…
Why Do It?
- The most famous and popular hike in Europe
- Circumambulate the highest point in Western Europe!
- This is NOT a mountaineering route it is a walking tour of high valleys and moderate Alpine passes
- No technical training or special equipment needed
- Altitude not really a factor (except just barely at one or two points)
- Several whole days are just one continuous panorama if the weather cooperates
- Generally, very well marked trails
- The ”Monarch of the Alps” Mont Blanc is not one mountain, it’s a whole range
- Stunning Alpine scenery the majority of the way
- Visit three countries (France, Italy, Switzerland)
- Stay in refuges/hotels every night, no need to tent!
- Refuges and villages along the way allows for a light pack weight
- Tenting possible too, with restrictions
- Charming old world Alpine culture abounds
- Huge Glaciers, immense rock faces, wide Alpine meadows
- More waterfalls than you can shake a hiking stick at
- Acres of wildflowers
- Hike during the day; eat, drink and lounge in the evenings (not to mention lunch break)
- The city of Chamonix is one of the great hiking/outdoor meccas in the world
- We liked the Italian city of Courmayeur even better!
- Spectacular high variants for the hardy hikers
- Alternative low routes if bad weather or simple fatigue strikes
- Social experience of the Refuges full of cosmopolitan hikers
- Excellent transportation network
- Buses, trains, roads, even cable cars connect many points
- Many itineraries available
- Many re-supply options
- If things go wrong, in most areas you can bail out rather swiftly
- Highlights: the Col de Fours, Fenetre d’Arpette, Col de Balme, the days around Courmayeur and the last two days of the ‘Grand Balcon Sud.’
- No need to go with a tour group you can organize this yourself
- We have never seen ANY mountain like Mont Blanc…it’s hard to describe it unless you’ve seen it
- Refuges Elisabetta, Bertone, Elena, Bonati, La Flegere and Lac Blanc
- Optional side trips by cable car/funicular train up Mont Blanc itself
- Trip by gondola to Punta Helbronner or Aiguille de Midi well worth it
- Mostly good (though steep) trails, barring washouts
- Many great guidebooks; Kev Reynolds work is the definitive one
- Long hiking days during summer, ambient light until almost 10 pm
- Real chance of seeing Chamonix, Ibex
- Taking a rest day in Courmayeur is strongly recommended
But consider this before you hike:
- More than 100 miles of walking, and it’s not flat
- VERY steep trails in places
- Some rough sections; some lengthy, bad downhills
- Most will require 9-11 days to do the full circuit
- At least one rest day a smart idea
- A TON of up and down (ten thousand meters elevation gain; that’s more than Mount Everest)
- Many, probably most, who do this trek don’t walk the whole way
- Ten major ascents if high variants are included
- Even if you DON’T do the high variants you still need to assault many steep grades
- Long, very exposed sections with no easy retreat to shelter
- Snow may linger well into the summer in some high cols (we saw it in August)
- Late afternoon thunderstorms almost a daily ritual in the Alps
- Expect at least a few days washed out by rain, low clouds
- The speed with which bad weather moves in can be quite shocking in the Alps
- Ladders and other appliances bolted to mountains (actually not that many)
- The “Delicate Passage” near La Flegere (actually not that bad going UP)
- Rough, exposed section between the Cols Bonhomme/Croix du Bonhomme/Fours
- Roughest section on the main tour is the area around Brevent; but the Fenetre de Arpette variant probably the roughest overall
- Very tough (and scenically lousy) first ascent out of Les Houches is disconcerting
- The last day is by FAR the hardest
- Some of the gnarliest sections of trail were through wooded areas (roots plus rocks)
- This is NOT a wilderness hike; livestock, towns, cafes, roads, ski slopes, power lines…
- You will hear cowbells in your sleep for months
- Many areas carved up by ski industry development
- Crowds, especially around the areas accessible by ski lifts
- Many day use areas clogged with rude, loutish non-hikers
- Huts often overrun with people
- Some refuges are nice; others are cramped, airless dungeons
- The TMB can be expensive
- Switzerland is especially expensive
- You will be tempted to eat, drink and tourist yourself into destitution
- Quite a lot of road walking, especially on low variants
- The most confusing sections are those that cross through towns and ski areas
- Most agree the least well marked section is Italy and the best France
- Many of the Refuges near roads are actually more like cheap flop house motels
- Those who tent are not always welcome at or near the refuges
- Many of our fellow hikers tented; most told some tale of woe involving the experience
- While many refuges claim to offer hot showers, sometimes cold water is substituted. ?
- Lowlights: The first slog to the Col de Voza, the ski-lift infested areas around the col de Checrouit/Plan Praz, the Col de Forclaz and most of the middle part of Switzerland
- In fact, most of the Swiss segment of the TMB, while pleasant, is rather forgettable (the Fenetre d’Arpette notably excepted.)
- Europe is a surprisingly inconvenient place by American standards
- While re-supply and transport options abound, they inevitably are closed, not running or on vacation in the Maldives when you reach them
- The best airport to fly into by far is Geneva. It’s also one of the most expensive in Europe to fly into
- Transportation strikes in France and Italy are common and can impact your plans
- Beware the Col de Tricot and the Fenetre d’Arpette in bad weather; both can be bypassed
- Several brutish downhills – into Courmayeur (Day 4) Tres-la-Champ (Day 9) and the final one into Les Houches (the worst)
- Some confusing places where many trails go in different directions, especially at the Col de Balme and the area known as the “Tufs”
- GPS often comes in handy (but is not required)
- Carry a good contour map and guide book
- Cell phones work in many areas but power can be a problem
- Expect to see mobile devices jammed into every available power strip at all refuges
- Carry a good battery pack and European wall adapter
- A map that shows side trails is very handy, there are many in the area
- Note that the popular Reynolds Guide, while excellent, totally downplays does not fully convey the challenges of many sections (Kev must be a cyborg.)
- Most places English is spoken, but don’t count on it. French is very helpful
- We found the Italian people very helpful and pleasant
- We found the French people to be very….French. ?
- Most of the Refuges will let you upgrade to a smaller (or private) room for extra cost. It gets tempting…